Our journey, Chapter 4: Almost Heaven
Note: I realized that y’all are pretty quick, and since I had already posted Chapters 2 and 3, many (most) of you read ahead. So, I am suppressing my OCD and posting Chapter 4. Think of it like the first Star Wars release. 😏 If for some reason you haven’t read the first chapters, I would encourage you doing so for context before this one. But, if you don’t mind starting in the middle of a book, have at it. Just don’t think you can read the end first because not even Natalie and I know what it is.
Did I mention that it’s hot here? it’s still hotter than Hades. A nice lava flow might help cool things down a bit.
Okay, it’s not that the actual temperature is really hotter here than it is on the east side of St. Thomas. Frankly, with highs around ninety, the temp is probably lower than it is in much of the States this time of year. But, without a breeze, the strong Caribbean sun simply bakes everything.
Thinking it was a good idea to escape the late afternoon blast furnace, we went to Ocean 362 for dinner on Sunday. We figured we could go to the bar at six for a pre-dinner cocktail only to discover we needed reservations for a seat at the bar! Who needs a reservation for a drink? Apparently, everyone at Ocean 362.
Instead, we were seated at a table with a perfect view of the sunset. The best table in the house. Looking around, I quickly realized why we were given such a prime location. We were the only people in the restaurant. That’s because everyone else on this island has had the secret handshake and doesn’t sit at a sundrenched table before seven. A bit late, but we’re starting to get the hang of things.
Despite being initially sent to the penalty box, the sun eventually began to set, the temperature dropped and it was a wonderful evening. The sunset was indeed spectacular and the day’s heat had dissipated so even the incredible chocolate ganache retained its intended form rather than dissolving into a liquid state.
Tuesday, we went to Morgan’s Mango in Cruz Bay. A trip to the USVIs isn’t complete without dinner at Morgan’s Mango. As always, it didn’t disappoint.
Tuesday is lobster night at Morgan’s Mango, so reservations were hard to come by. I had to put on my big boy pants and agree to a seat at the bar for two at eight. Once upon a time, I remember regularly asking for reservations at seven-thirty or so, but that was a few years ago. Now, I’m almost part of the early bird crowd of people I used to look at askance and swear I would never join that group. Meh.
God had a hand in our plans for the night. (What a surprise…) We arrived a few minutes early. Mike and Lori, a couple seated next to us did, too. Turned out they were scheduled to go on the same trip we had booked to Jost Van Dyke the following day.
Wednesday morning, the four of us, and about forty of our closest friends we had all just met, sailed out of Great Cruz Bay to Caneel Bay for a snorkeling stop before heading to Jost. The snorkeling was good, but it was the trip to Jost that made me remember exactly why I want to live in the Caribbean. The breeze in my face as we sailed, the bright blue sky dotted with cotton ball clouds, the sea which was translucent in the shallows before becoming light blue, turquoise and finally a darker shade of blue as the water deepened and the green hillsides of the peaks that surrounded us all combined to whisk me to what I am certain is the nearest thing to Heaven on earth. Before that moment, I had secretly begun to question whether I really wanted to live in the Caribbean. No longer. I knew I was home.
As we neared Jost, Lori pointed to a villa being rented as a vacation property. Its name? “Almost Heaven”. I’m not always the first one to recognize the signs around us, but I sure understood that one!
The beach on Jost was crowded. I had forgotten people from Puerto Rico flock to Jost on July 24 to celebrate Christmas in July. But, somehow the masses merely added to the wonder of the day.
We stopped at the Soggy Dollar Bar for an obligatory Painkiller, which was first created there. While standing in the long line, I met Chris. He and a group from his church were there to celebrate life. As we talked, I mentioned Erin and my book, “The Salt Messages”. Chris asked me what it was about and I said it was about a guy who got pissed off at God because his daughter had cancer. After he learned we had lost Erin, he also asked me if I was still angry. When I told him I wasn’t, and that writing the book was part of the healing process, he introduced me to a friend of his, Jeff. Jeff shared with me he had lost his wife just a year ago. Jeff is a surgeon who felt helpless because despite all of his education and experience, he couldn’t save his wife.
Yet, something in our conversation struck a nerve in all of us. We embraced each other, wishing we weren’t part of the club of those who have lost a person so dear to us, but thankful for the gift of a complete stranger who genuinely wanted to share grief and willing to offer caring compassion. In this crowded bar in the BVIs we all recognized we hadn’t met by accident.
Painkillers finally in hand, I made my way to the water where Natalie, Mike and Lori were standing waist-deep. I told them about meeting Chris and Jeff and how moving it was. God is with us as we stumble through life and we all need each other.
Turns out Mike and Lori have been to Jost and St. John many times, so they quickly became our unofficial tour guides. They led us to a far less crowded bar for mahi tacos and drinks. The food was great and the atmosphere island perfect. When I asked for another Carib, the barkeep pointed me to the coolers under the bar and told me to help myself. Natalie was behind the bar making her cocktail next. Try that in the States! My blood pressure came down another few points even as my liver enzymes continued to rise. I’ll be better tomorrow – I swear it!
As we made our way back to the boat for the return trip, we came across a sign designating that section of the beach as “Sandcastle” with incredibly inviting seaside bungalows that will absolutely call us to return. Sandcastle was the name of a sailboat Natalie and I took twice in the BVIs with our friends Becky and Bill. Just another clue that we had made our way to paradise.
It’s good to be alive and in the Caribbean even if it is on the leeward side of St. John!